There is
nothing more awkward than explaining to someone you are counseling on weight
loss strategies that you make homemade ice cream. I think as a dietitian people
assume you subsist on field greens and skinless chicken. And when hunger
hits, you simply pull out your bag of celery sticks and twiggy carrots and
quickly reach snack nirvana.
I am not sure
who first promoted this tactic as a method of weight loss. But I propose
this person has ruined lives. And I hope he finds himself in some weird purgatory
where there is nothing but an endless buffet of celery stalks and baby
carrots—the ones that have gone through a nice chlorine rinse—and fat-free
French dressing. Because fat-free French dressing is about as joyless a
substance as one can encounter.
Anyway, it
seems the perception is dietitians are incapable of experiencing any real
pleasure other than that which is brought from baked chicken and infinity
celery. It is one of the reasons why my office computer screensaver is a
picture of homemade ice cream.
To get
technical, it is actually frozen yogurt. But it
contains full fat dairy and heavy cream, two items society implies
dietitians—and perhaps women more broadly—are not supposed to look at, let
alone ingest.
Unless, of
course, we are status post breakup. Or premenstrual. Or are depicted in
advertisement wearing silk and red lipstick, consuming a 100-calorie version to
stay sexily deprived.
So even though
the picture occasionally gets me into trouble with a few evangelical lactose
haters and black-and-white thinking dieters, I keep it up. For one, it is
a humanizer. I am a real person. I have needs. Sometimes
those needs include high fat dairy.
But it is also
a symbol of the importance of savoring. We have become pretty terrible at
allowing food enjoyment. Instead we have guilt, substitutions, and green coffee bean extract to counteract our sins.
I also believe
that if you have the opportunity to make ice cream, you gain appreciation of
the time it takes to create. And this might also help slow down
consumption so that the whole pint is not sacrificed in a single sitting.
Maybe.
I realize in
saying all of this that I come here today with a yogurt pop recipe. I
assure if it is ice cream you desire, there are plenty of catalogued
recipes. In fact, this black raspberry one and this chocolate truffle version, courtesy of the famed chef Fergus Henderson, are two
all-time favorites.
Either way, the
concept is the same. The inclusion of fat is a must. As is the use
of ingredients you can pronounce.
The difference
is really a matter of investment. I am six weeks away from getting my
master’s degree. I would also wager that you are likely pretty busy and
may not have the time (or desire) to make ice cream. So although the
yogurt needs to drain overnight, the actual prep requires all of ten
minutes. And dirties fewer dishes.
So please
accept this very solid substitute for busy souls.
The popsicles
are tangy, and floral, and tart. I prefer grassiness of sheep’s milk
yogurt, but any regular whole milk yogurt will do. The coconut and mango
lend a subtle tropical vibe. And the stripes of bright orange running through
white vanilla bean-flecked sections are not the worst thing to look at,
visually speaking.
The point is
there are numerous ways to enjoy frozen dessert without sacrificing your sense
of self. That and maybe … just maybe … there is more to life than celery.
Vanilla Bean
Yogurt and Orange Blossom Mango Pops
Ingredients:
1¾ cup whole
milk yogurt (see note)
scant ½ cup
coconut milk cream (see note)
1 vanilla bean
2 to 3 tbsp
honey
1 Ataulfo mango
or small regular mango (see note), skin removed and chopped
juice of ½
large or 1 small lime
½ tsp orange
blossom water
pinch salt
Instructions:
The night
before, place the yogurt in a fine mesh strainer lined with a coffee filter or
heavy-duty paper towel. Set over a bowl so the liquid can drain out;
refrigerate overnight.
The next day,
discard the drained liquid. In a medium bowl, combine the thickened
yogurt and coconut cream. Split the vanilla bean with a knife and scrape the
seeds into the yogurt. Add the honey to taste.
In a food
processor, add the mango, lime juice, orange blossom water, and salt. Whirl
until pureed.
In the base of
each popsicle mold, layer about one-third of the yogurt mixture and then
alternate with the mango and yogurt until the molds are filled, ending with
yogurt (you will have enough for 2 to 3 layers of each pending preference).
Insert popsicle stick or handle. Freeze until solid (at least 4 hours).
Makes 6
Notes:
-I prefer
sheep’s milk yogurt, but no matter the animal I recommend full-fat. The
yogurt should drain to about a 1 cup portion.
-Coconut milk
cream is the separated substance found at the top of a can of unshaken coconut
milk. I added it to increase the fat and reduce the water content so the
popsicles are not as icy.
-Ataulfo mango is honey-flavored and easy to puree,
which makes it a no-brainer for this recipe. I suspect other versions
could be employed in a pinch.
