Behold, a list of things I am suspicious
of: Raw garlic. Men in fedoras. Colonics. Bartenders who make
negronis in martini glasses. (Please note: they should be served on the
rocks. In an old-fashioned glass. With an orange slice. Like
you were making them for your eighty-seven year-old grandfather.) B-complex
vitamins. People who claim to dislike cake. And, most recently, a forgotten
pickle recipe ripped from the pages of bon
appétit.
I had clipped the page for its featured triple
beef burger with spiced ketchup. At one point in time, I was suspicious of
people who used condiments like "spiced ketchup." But after developing an
unhealthy attachment to the lamb burgers and fries with with homemade
mace-laced ketchup at Matt Murphy’s in Brookline Village I have since
changed my tune. I would be nothing but a saucy, tomato-faced hypocrite.
Anyways, on my slightly rumpled tear out —low
and behold—there was a pickle recipe by a Mr. Tony Maws. Initially, I admit, I had my doubts. It
seemed to contain less vinegar than I’m accustomed to. And a bit more
salt. I am certainly not salt shy, but I was burned by a cured scallop
recipe once; I haven’t been able to look at the mollusk the same
since. I am not, however, skeptical of the food that Maws creates. So, I
threw caution to the wind and pickled as I was told. And then waited—a little
impatiently—until I was able to finally bite into one.
Now, I am typically very, very distrusting of
hyperbole—sniffing out superlatives with the best of them—but I am one-hundred and ten percent confident in saying that this recipe makes the finest pickles
around. I'm quite sure this is what all other pickles strive to be. Perfectly seasoned.
Impossibly crisp. Top dog. Most excellent. Textbook. Spot on.
A condiment to judge all others. You get the idea. A pickle apotheosis.
Pickle Spears
Adapted from Tony Maws of Craigie on Main via bon appétit
Ingredients:
2¼ cups water
2/3 cup white vinegar
4 sprigs of fresh dill
2 tbsp kosher salt
1½ tsp whole black peppercorns
1 tsp pink peppercorns
2 tsp fennel seeds
1 tsp brown mustard seeds
1 tsp juniper berries
1 bay leaf
1 serrano chile
About 4-5 pickling cumbers (or about 1 pound)
Instructions:
Bring all the ingredients (except the pickles) to a boil in a large
saucepan and stir occasionally until the salt dissolves. Meanwhile, slice the pickles into
spears and place them in a glass container that will allow for the pickles to
be fully covered with the brining liquid. (I used a Weck jar.) Just be
sure your jar can withstand the heat of the hot liquid. When the salt has dissolved, pour your brine over the liquid and
allow to cool slightly. Cover and
refrigerate overnight, ideally at least 24 hours, before eating. The pickles will keep for a few weeks in the fridge.
Makes about 15-20 pickles
Notes:
-In his recipe, Tony also calls for 6-1/8 inch
rounds of peeled fresh horseradish; 2 tsp coriander seeds; ½ tsp whole allspice;
and ½ large red onion, thinly sliced. He uses red
wine vinegar, as well. I didn’t
have any of these things on hand, since I hadn’t really been planning to pickle
and all. So I added some pink peppercorns, subbed brown mustard seeds for the yellow variety, and slightly adjusted some of the spice ratios. (Of course, the spice amounts are rough estimates.) I guess what I’m saying is that there
is room to play. Though I’ll
definitely be back with horseradish and red onion next time.
-This is not a pickle that is bracing with vinegar. The recipe honors the cucumber, treats it in a way that summer produce should be treated.
-Maw's favorite burgers in Boston.
I flagged this recipe too and your creation reminds me that I've got to give it a try!
ReplyDeleteAs I wrote in an email to someone just this afternoon, "If it's been pickled, I'll eat it." I actually don't have the pink peppercorns or juniper berries on hand, but it sounds like the dash of color was a Plum add-on? But yes, indeed, to the juniper berries? Say the word and I'm off to find the spice tomorrow after work.
ReplyDeleteGreat minds think alike ladies. ;)
ReplyDeleteMolly, the juniper berries were called for in the original recipe. I added the pink peppercorns, as you suspected. If you happen to stumble upon the horseradish, I'd add that too. As well as the onion. You might even be able to google the original recipe from bon appetit and compare. Either way, it's worth trying: happy pickling!
i don't like pickled cukes. at all. i like other pickled things, though, so i don't know what's wrong with me.
ReplyDeleteincidentally, my brother believes you can rub raw garlic on any wound and it will heal. i don't think he has any evidence to support this.
You pickles look great. My daughter could probably eat the whole jar.
ReplyDelete