Showing posts with label cocktail. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cocktail. Show all posts

5.24.2014

Rhubarb Rose Ramos Gin, Minus the Fizz. Lessons in Forgetfulness.


I can generally behave myself on beer, and wine if there isn’t bubbles involved.  Gin, however, lends an air of invincibility.  Invincibility followed by waves of death in the morning.  One particularly infamous New Year’s Eve, after drinking a bottle of champagne, I ushered out the evening with an extra dry gin martini.

Except the bar was out of olives and cocktail glasses, so technically I drank a glass of gin.  What happened next is what one might call a broach, in sailing terms.  I quickly found myself in danger of capsizing, crisscrossing to “Come Fly with Me” and clinging to anything semi-stationary.

Some 2 AM scrambled eggs and cheese helped.  But I’ve certainly had Saturday mornings that were more pleasant. I suppose we shouldn’t cast champagne as innocent in this tale, but that is not the point of the story.

I mention all of this because I drank a gin fizz on Friday night.  A rhubarb Ramos gin fizz.  Except I forgot to add soda water.  So technically it was a rhubarb Ramos gin.  No matter.  I’m prone to a jettison of classic cocktail elements.

I followed it with pasta carbonara.  Partly because I had a leftover yolk to use.  And partly because, in my twenties, I may have formed an unbreakable bond between gin and eggs.  Not to say things got all slant-y Sinatra.  For one, I know the limits of my thirty-something liver.  For two, I was in my bathrobe.

This might be my new favorite way to drink gin (the bathrobe is optional, but encouraged).  I had to share it, immediately.  It's frothy, and tart, and behaves a bit like a well-balanced spring creamsicle.  Which I say with trepidation, because I don’t want to give the impression we’ve sugarcoated a classic. 

It is flower petal pink, for certain.  But also a breath of fresh air in the booze department.  Dare I say something even a gin-hater could love.  Which usually turns gin-lovers off, but I assure this cocktail will win most rational—and nearly all irrational—drinkers over. 

Despite the name, and its appearance, it’s not incredibly difficult to make.  It just doesn’t take well to impulse.  You’ll need cold rhubarb syrup, for one.  And also the cocktail accoutrement of a well-seasoned drinker.  But the result is something a Bogart heroine could love.

Sure, a martini still has its place.  But mostly when I want to hate myself in the morning.

Rhubarb Rose Ramos Gin Fizz
Adapted from Food52

Ingredients:

for the rhubarb syrup

1 pound rhubarb stalks, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 cup sugar
1-inch piece of peeled ginger root
pinch of salt

for the cocktail

2 ounces gin
½ ounce lemon juice
½ ounce lime juice
2 ounces rhubarb syrup
1 ounce half and half
2 drops of rose water
1 egg white

Instructions:

In a medium saucepan, place the rhubarb pieces, sugar, ginger, salt, and 2 cups of water.  Simmer on medium heat, stirring occasionally.  (Reduce the heat if the liquid comes to a vigorous boil.)  Cook about 35 minutes, or until the liquid reduces to slightly more than half and turns deep pink.  Strain out the rhubarb pulp using a mesh strainer; save for another use.  Chill the syrup.

In a cocktail shaker, combine all ingredients and shake vigorously for 30 seconds.  Add 4 or 5 ice cubes and shake for another 30 seconds.  Strain into a cocktail glass.

Makes 1 cocktail

Notes:
-As is de rigueur with gin fizzes, the recipe originally called for soda water.  Which is optional here.  I’d start with an ounce, if you are adding it.  I should also note I used half and half in place of heavy cream (simply because I always have it for my coffee).  I suspect this helped to cut down on the thickness of the drink a bit, much like the soda water would.  (Add the soda water after you shake and strain the cocktail.)

-Gin fizz recipes often call for orange blossom water.  This one uses rose instead, which lends a subtle, soft perfume that I absolutely loved. 

-The rhubarb pulp would be great on top of yogurt.  

8.18.2012

A Bourbon Sour or Three, Gone with the Wind


We’re all friends here, right?  So I can share that I’ve already drunk three of these suckers. And the only thing stopping me from having another is that I’m out of mixer.

Specifically, I’m out of what was introduced to me as “lemon sherbet,” also known as a proper oleo saccharum.  The sherbet is a key component to classic punch recipes according to liquor historian, David Wonderich.  (Not to be confused with the icy confectionary namesake.)

It’s a liquid.  Its essence is an intense citrusy syrup made from lemon peel and sugar.  And it infuses some serious aromatics into your cocktail(s). 


The sherbet’s raison d'ĂȘtre is the drink. And once you’ve had it, your raison d'ĂȘtre may very well become the drink.  Don’t fret about that.


The recipe came to me via Ted Gallagher of Craigie on Main.  “Cocktails should be drank cold, and fast,” he said with the conviction of Rhett Butler.  And I can’t disagree.  (Remember my three friends from above?)  I’m a lady  broad who loves her bourbon.  And old-timey items like whiskey sours and things that require a little elbow grease.   


So lemon peels and sugar were tossed into a bowl and mashed with the end of a rolling pin every quarter hour from seven to nine-thirty on a recent weekday night.  Later in the week, eggs were cracked, lemons were squeezed, and bourbon was poured.   Oh, and there was a cocktail shaker, a narrow glass, some ice cubes … and a pink umbrella.  For flare.  Not that this drink needs any of that.  But sometimes a gal needs a pink umbrella in her drink for no good reason. 

And so the bourbon sour was made.  Whether you add ice cubes into your cocktail is a matter of preference. Just know that it should be drank cold, and often. And by someone that knows how. 


Bourbon Sour

Ingredients:

2 egg whites
3 ounces bourbon
3 ounces lemon sherbet (see recipe below)
1½ ounces fresh lemon juice

For the lemon sherbet
Adapted from Ted Gallagher via David Wondrich

2 large lemons
4 ounces (½ cup) sugar
Juice of two lemons (or in equal parts with the sugar)

Instructions:

For the lemon sherbet

Prepare the lemon sherbet at least 2-3 hours in advance.  Remove the peels from your lemons. (Be sure to remove all of the white pith; you can do this by running your knife along the inner peel of the lemon, like you were filleting a fish.)  Place the zests and sugar in a large non-reactive bowl.  Using a muddling stick or the end of a blunt object, like a rolling pin, press down on the peel and mash it into the sugar; continue this for a few minutes.  (You want to do this to release the essential oils from the zest.)

Continue this muddling process every 15-20 minutes for the next 2-3 hours, or until enough liquid is released that it forms a gel.  Once the liquid is the consistency of runny marmalade and smells of intense lemon, it's ready.

Juice your lemons (you’ll need about ½ cup of juice) and add the juice to your lemony sugar liquid.  Stir the mixture until the sugar dissolves (this will likely take a few minutes); eventually, no sugar should remain.  You may wish to let the liquid sit a little longer if you are having a hard time dissolving all the sugar.  It will come with time.  Remove the peels prior to using or storing the sherbet.

For the bourbon sour

Place your egg whites into a cocktail shaker and shake them for a minute or two (be sure to do this dry, with no ice: it helps with the texture of the drink).  Once your whites are frothy, add the bourbon, lemon sherbet, lemon juice, and a generous amount of ice cubes.  Shake another minute or so and pour into glasses.

Add ice cubes to your cocktail, if that’s your thing.  I tried it both ways and, though the picture above is sans cube, I've found I prefer ice.  Run a little lemon peel around the rim of the glass, if it's readily available. Garnish at will.  Perhaps with a cherry; I like these.

Makes 2 cocktails (the lemon sherbet recipe will make enough for about two rounds or a tad more)

Notes:
-The sherbet can keep in the fridge for about a week.  And it can be done with any number of citrus fruits.  You can also increase the yield by scaling up the amounts: just keep the proportions the same.  This is a ratios game.

-This isn’t an impulse cocktail.  It does require a few hours of advanced planning to make the sherbet.  (But I promise it’s worth it.)  Seems like a lot of instruction for a cocktail, I know, but it’s a special drink and a fairly easy one to recreate at home.  Also, for those at home, know that an average-sized shot glass is about an ounce and a half.

-This drink uses egg whites, like other sours, such as the pisco.  (In a flip, as in a brandy flip, you'll want to use the whole egg.) 

-Some may be concerned about the use of raw egg.  I like to think the alcohol solves this problem, but I can’t guarantee it.  All I can say is that I’ve been drinking them with abandon.  And I'm still here. (And so is my drinking buddy.)

-I saw Ted Gallagher at the Institute of Contemporary Art of Boston’s Talking Taste summer series.  It’s an annual favorite.  And Gallagher was terrific.  

P.s.  A Plum was featured on Saveur this week, so check me out!



7.26.2011

There's Always Room for P-I-M-M-S

Brace yourself. Things are about to get real. And by real, I mean real weird. And by weird, I mean gelatin. But I can't help it, I love it during the summer. Having access to backyard mint and a steady supply of cool, crunchy cucumbers doesn’t hurt during the warmer months, either.

Nor does knowing how to make a Pimm's Cup cocktail. (Do you see where I'm going with this?) So what better way to combine these summertime items than by suspending them in gelatin.

But first: the Pimm's cup. I could talk rather poetically about how I first came to love the cocktail. I was with one of my oldest friends. You know the kind. The kind whose signature is in the majority of your yearbooks. And could probably blackmail you if she wanted.

We were in one of the oldest bars in Boston. In the company of tiny black and white tiles; antique-stained mirrors; and an attentive bartender, sipping a bright iced tea-looking liquid from Collins glasses. This makes us sound quite ladylike. I assure you, we were not. In fact, we probably—more accurately—were gulping instead of sipping, sucking them down until our glasses were dry, our slurping straws screeching for another round.

At the time we were at the Marliave, which originally opened in the 19th century and is tragically underrated in Boston. They have a great croque madame, very politely named the Mrs. Marliave. Don’t let her fool you. She is not a dainty sandwich and I’m pretty sure she caused some hushed cursing—and perhaps pants unbuttoning—that night. Yes, the Marliave makes a great ham and cheese sandwich. And an even better Pimm's Cup.

I won’t go into the details of making a Pimm's cup. Suffice to say that it’s often made with ginger beer. Or lemonade and club soda. Or some combination thereof. It’s frequently finished with cucumber slices and a sprig of mint. Molly from Orangette has a great take on the cocktail. Regardless of your version, it’s light and refreshing and takes very kindly to ham and cheese topped off with an over easy egg. It also works quite well when gelled and cut into cubes.

So, for the second year in a row, I make a boozy nod to Bill Cosby and the nostalgia of Jell-O jigglers. As refreshing as cold gelatin is in the summer, it’s heightened by the light, refreshing quality of a Pimm's cup cocktail. It also gets added crunch from the mint and the cucumber, which I assure you won’t disappoint: especially this time of year, when petite pickling cucumbers are abundant in farmers’ markets. It may not be refined, but it won’t necessitate any unbuttoning of pants. And it's a breeze to make.

Most importantly, it’s fun. Which often flies directly in the face of refinement. And that’s fine by me. Because today we are here to celebrate a different way to down a Pimm's cup: with our bare hands. Yes, Bill, they are a handful of fun.

Pimm's Cup Cocktail Cubes

Ingredients:

24 oz ginger brew or ginger ale, divided (for a total of 2 cans or bottles)
1/4 cup plus 2 tbsp sugar
Pinch of salt
4 packages of gelatin (I used Knox)
1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
1 cup Pimm's No.1
Pinch of cumin
1 small pickling cucumber, cut into thin slices
Few sprigs of mint

Instructions:

Heat 12 oz (1 can or bottle) of ginger soda with the sugar and salt in a saucepan until just boiling. Meanwhile, in a large bowl combine gelatin with the remaining 12 oz (or remaining can or bottle) to soften for a few minutes (about 3-5 minutes or so). Stir the lemon juice and Pimm's into the gelatin and then add in the boiling ginger mixture. Add a pinch of cumin and stir until gelatin is dissolved. At this point, you could taste the mixture and adjust the flavor as needed. (The sweetness may vary slightly depending on the ginger soda you use and your preference.)

Add in the cucumber slices and a few mint leaves off the sprigs. Pour into a rectangular baking dish (mine is 11 x 7). Refrigerate until firm, ideally overnight.

Makes about 15 cubes

Notes:
-I am loving Maine Root's ginger brew this summer. I used one bottle of that plus one of GuS extra dry ginger ale, which is also some kind of wonderful.

-The pinch of cumin is there to compliment the spicy undertones of Pimm's No.1, which has always reminded me slightly of curry.

-While we are on the topic of busting buttons on pants, I should let you know Nick and Theo will be hosting The Boston Pie Experiment at the Middle East in Cambridge on Sunday, July 31st. Anyone can compete. Anyone can attend. Everyone should wear elastic-waisted pants.

8.02.2010

Keep Calm and Carry Rum

There is a lot we can learn from Hemingway. He wrote classics. He taught us that simplicity says so much. He drank. Hemingway’s scotch and lime drink: 3 ounces of scotch, with lime. (This is a man after my own heart.)

I have a friend that shares my fondness for Hemingway (and for strong cocktails). He is roughly 88% steel, 10% gin and 2% pixie dust. He also writes a blog for those of similar makeup: My Kind of Razzmatazz. If you are looking for tips on how to live like Hemingway, or other men of greatness, Razzmatazz is your bible.

Every so often we get together to cook and drink in a way that Hemingway might appreciate: these events are dubbed ‘the Hemingway Way.’ The meals usually involve some sort of grilled fish with lime. Always booze, typically rum. The man loved his rum.

And he loved daiquiris. Real daiquiris: not those glorified 7-Eleven Slurpees, with a splash of rum; you know, the kind you find at all-inclusive resorts and in bars with names like Tiki Dan’s. Hemingway’s famed daiquiri cocktail is the Papa Doble.

You may see it on ‘trendy’ bar menus. Be wary if it is served in a martini glass. In fact, be wary of any bar that serves cocktails—other than a gin or vodka martini—in a martini glass. Drinks should be served in a glass that best honors the booze, not for the simple sake of supposed sophistication. (After all, I’ve never known a drink to make you more sophisticated after you drank it.)

Hemingway was also particular with his drinks (as he was with most things in his life). It is said that while Hemingway loved daiquiris, he asked for double the rum ... with half the sugar. My kind of man: 66% rum, 30% discriminating, 4% lime/sugar. That’s 100% alive, if you ask me. While Hemingway is no longer alive, July 21st would have been his 101st birthday.

And so Razzmatazz and I celebrated ‘the Hemingway way’ in a way that Hemingway would have appreciated: we struggled. Much like the marlin from The Old Man and the Sea, my grill proved to be a worthy adversary: the grill's flames kept going out. We could not let the grill win.

We had harpoon-caught swordfish to cook. We had honor to uphold. We made more dark and stormy cocktails. We did not give up.

I realize that the dark and stormy cocktail probably wasn’t a Hemingway mainstay. The ingredients hail from Bermuda, while Hemingway was pretty partial to Cuba. Nevertheless, I am sure Papa Doble would have appreciated the simplicity of the cocktail. Also, I gave Razzmatazz the wrong shot glass to make the drinks, so we ended up with double the rum. It was like Hemingway was guiding us. We were even able to secure Barritt’s ginger beer; made since 1874 and notoriously hard to come by.

In the end—and after a few cocktails—we ate the fish of our labor. It was perfection. So much so that I bought harpoon-caught swordfish a few more times that week. Best eat it while you can; it is apparently only available for a short time. The fish are caught, one by one, from fishermen using time-honored harpooning methods.

As for the fisherman that harpooned the marlin in The Old Man and The Sea? He spent days dragging the fish back to land, only to find its carcass consumed by sharks along the way. I don’t blame the sharks. In fact, I sympathize if harpooned marlin tastes anything like harpooned swordfish.

If you are lucky enough to live in Boston, you only have to venture to Whole Foods to get it; though, how long it’s available is anyone’s guess.

If you don’t usually like fish: man up. Think of Hemingway. The man loved life, and he thrived on the raw moments.

“… there’s a whole big world out there full of people who really feel things. They live and love and die with all their feelings. Taste everything …” Ernest Hemingway (1919)

Taste everything.

The Menu

Rosemary-garlic potatoes roasted in bacon fat
Butter-braised cucumbers with oregano and red onions
Grilled harpoon-caught swordfish with lime butter
Dark and stormy cocktails (recipe follows)

The Dark and Stormy Doble

3 ounces Gosling's Black Seal Rum
Barritt's ginger beer
Lime slices, at will

Pour rum in a 10 or 12 ounce glass, filled with ice. Top off with ginger beer. Add lime slice(s).

Makes one (possibly makes one drunk, depending on your tolerance).

Notes:

No notes are needed; make your own notes.