The Memory of Maple Roasted Butternut Squash Barley Salad

Let me just say that I never thought barley + butternut squash could incite so much passion.  I should have known better.  I first made this salad for my sister’s bridal shower.  Her wedding was this past weekend and—even weeks later—it still had people talking.  I'd even go so far as to say that there was more salad-related chatter than the typical love life inquiry chitchat.  

Which was fine by me.  Talking about barley is much less awkward.  Especially when you’re in a bridesmaid dress with Frank Sinatra playing in the background.

Coincidentally, preparing this recipe requires a certain romancing of the ingredients.  It’s not rocket science, but you have to pay attention to the details.  And in the end, it’s the details that make the salad worth eating. 

So, dear barley salad, there are many things that will keep me loving you and, with your permission, may I list a few?  The way you wear your hat.  The way you sip your tea ….  Errr, I probably shouldn’t anthropomorphize the barley too much, should I?  I suppose it's too late.

This is truly a salad to love.  The butternut squash is peeled, chopped into tiny cubes, and tossed in oil and herbs.   The onions get bathed in balsamic.  Then these very special jewel-toned vegetables marry with the barley.  

So here it is, after much request: the ingredients and instructions that will—with any luck—recreate a gorgeous salad.  As for the ingredients and instructions for a gorgeous marriage?  Be forewarned, looks fade.  So you had better have backup.  As for the salad?  The taste improves the longer it sits.  With any luck, the leftovers for both will linger.  

But no matter what: the barley was good, and pretty, and the memory of all that, no, they can’t take that away from me.

Maple Roasted Butternut Squash Barley Salad

Ingredients

1 pound barley, uncooked

2 butternut squashes, peeled and chopped into 1/2" cubes

6 sage leaves, minced

3 sprigs rosemary, minced

~ 1 cup olive oil, divided

Salt and pepper

Juice of 3 lemons, divided (zest of one lemon reserved)

Juice of 3 tangerines, divided (zest of one tangerine reserved)

~6 tbsp maple syrup, divided

3 red onions, peeled and sliced thinly

2-4 tbsp balsamic vinegar (enough to coat red onions)

Instructions

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.  Prepare barley on stovetop according to package directions.  While barley is cooking, place butternut squash cubes on baking sheet and toss with the herbs and enough olive oil so that the cubes glisten and will not stick to the pan (~4 tbsp).  Season liberally with salt and pepper and place into preheated oven.

Meanwhile, prepare the dressing by combining the juice of 2 lemons, 2 tangerines, zest of 1 lemon and 1 tangerine, at least 1/2 cup olive oil, a quick gulg (a tablespoon or so) of maple syrup, and salt and pepper to taste.  (At this point you may need to add additional acidity, so add more citrus juice or additional maple syrup and olive oil for sweetness and body, respectively, as needed per your preference.)    Set dressing aside until the barley is thoroughly cooked with cooking water drained.  Toss 1/2 of the dressing with hot barley in a large bowl and set aside.

Then check on the butternut squash and toss it with ~1/4 cup maple syrup and juice from the remaining lemon and tangerine and place back in oven and continue to cook it until squash is fork tender and caramelized.  Meanwhile, place red onions on another baking sheet and toss with balsamic vinegar and additional olive oil; once again, until well coated.  Season with salt and pepper and roast in oven until they are caramelized and shriveled.  (They will roast fairly quickly, so keep an eye on them.)

Once the squash and onions are done, mix them with the barley; then toss everything with the remaining dressing.  Taste and adjust for additional salt and pepper as needed.

Makes about 10 cups 

Notes:

-Since this recipe was me, in the kitchen, in rare form: most of the measurements are approximates.  

Down the Barley Soup Rabbit Hole

I’m late! I’m late! I’m late, for a very important date. Though I don’t have much time, I have enough to say that I think we are on the cusp of a rabbit explosion. Wait. Don’t go. Rabbits are not that scary: I promise. They’ve been, ahem, popping up all over the place. So go ahead, jump down the rabbit hole.

On the other side, you’ll find the likes of many notable Bostonians. Edible Boston recently ran a rabbit-friendly story. Barbara Lynch makes a braised rabbit pasta dish with olives and rosemary at Sportello. Toro serves up rabbit paté stuffed with pistachios. And Stoddard’s even does rabbit mousse.

While I realize this is not the context to convert the weary, I can say that rabbit tastes like the dark meat of chicken, but a little more of the earth. Consequently, it’s also less taxing on the environment. And though it was once considered peasant food, it ain’t cheap today. In fact, my rabbit cost me over 40 shekels, the beast. I scored some from Stillman’s Farm at the winter farmers' market in Somerville: it was worth every penny. The meals it made practically fell into my kitchen.

I decided to braise this rabbit similarly to the way I braise short ribs, mainly because I had some leftover port. So after I had a nice crust on the meat, into the pot went diced carrots, tomatoes, garlic, onions, fresh oregano, rosemary and port. A few hours later, some low and slow cooking turned out braised rabbit that fell nicely off the bone. The saucy rabbit then made for a wonderful base, atop a whole wheat pizza crust, with fresh mozzarella from Fiore Di Nonno (also from the winter market) and ricotta, along with some more fresh oregano. Next, came a stock out of the rabbit carcass, in the exact fashion of making chicken stock, and voilà: rabbit soup.

Down, down, down the rabbit hole I went. And I don’t think I’ll be coming back. Turns out, rabbit is as versatile as it is fecund.

So, in typical fashion (oh my ears and whiskers!), the rabbit is at it again. Prolifically giving life to many dishes and rapidly spreading throughout the menus of Boston, as well as becoming a welcome addition to my kitchen.

Rabbit Barley Soup

2 tbsp olive oil

1 onion

3 garlic cloves, minced

4 carrots, peeled and diced

8 cups rabbit stock (or chicken stock; both can be made with the carcass, in the same manner)

~1 sprig rosemary

~2 sprigs oregano

Salt and pepper

14 oz can chopped tomatoes

1/2 cup uncooked barley

Saute the onion, garlic and carrots with olive oil in a large stock pot. Add in stock and herbs. Season with salt and pepper. Let simmer about 20 minutes. Add tomatoes and uncooked barley and cook for about 60 minutes more, or until barley is fully cooked. Adjust for seasoning, as needed.

Makes ~ 2 quarts

Notes:

-This is a great leftover dish if you have some remaining rabbit to use up. I added ~1 cup braised rabbit meat to the soup and and am happily awaiting rabbit soup leftovers in my freezer.

-This is a recipe open to interpretation. It can easily be substituted for chicken.