Eat More Green Stuff

I recently had a conference call during which I learned a certain grocery store chain plans to offer a program to rate the contents of your shopping basket, much like your mother might if she combed through your crumpled receipts. 

I suspect many of us have an internal dialogue about what we eat that we turn up or down like a transistor radio. But perhaps some people hope to go home and review a computer printout of their food purchases like it is a naughty or nice list from the North Pole.

A program like this brings up many questions.  It so happens—for me—I only go to this particular grocer for two very specific things: turkey subs and hot dogs. At my most recent trip, I was also lured into buying some canned beer from their liquor store warehouse. 

So it is pretty clear my report card would not be one to post on the fridge.  

At a recent dinner at the Rosebud, I debated this idea with a good friend of mine over negronis and fried vegetables. It was the kind of conversation you can have with someone you have known for nearly two decades. She pointed out a way to scam the system by paying cash for your undesirables.  I had not even thought of this, but it was a fast reminder as to why we are still friends.

It is ultimately sad that we need a computer to help decide if what we are buying is “good.” But I get it.  Marketing is powerful, and confusing, and many people find food labels to be like hieroglyphics.

Plus we are very busy and easily distracted by cookies.

But the food choices we make are also very complex.  I shop at four different spots to get what I need—and reasons for this vary from nutrition and sustainability to emotion and taste.

All are valid. And hard to judge in isolation, whether you are a machine or a human.

Take the ingredients to make this ice cream.  Fresh mint and matcha tea might make Dr. Weil happy.  But flavonols in the tea may be blunted by the addition of dairy.  Not to mention the matcha food miles. Plus the mint is not actually even eaten.

The dark chocolate is 70% cocoa, but is that enough? (Probably not.)  But it was produced locally and this allows me to implicate an unsuspecting factory in Somerville, Massachusetts in the post-rationalization of my cravings. 

And swapping brown rice syrup in place of the corn variety seems better, but is it once you consider the arsenic risk? 

All this aside, no one eats ice cream for its health benefits.  The ingredients, however, do make a very satisfying iced dessert.  It is smooth, bright, and grassy, with slight bursts of bitter chocolate. I originally added the matcha for shallow reasons (namely to impart a light green hue).  But it also contributes a vegetal note that plays very well with the mint and dark chocolate.  A computer is not going to know this. At least not yet.

So here is a little secret.  A way to simplify things.  Eight out of ten of us do not eat enough fruit and vegetables. This is not a metric that makes people very healthy.  It turns out broccoli does not have a sexy marketing campaign, either. (Though it should.)

But if you aim to eat more plants maybe, just maybe, you might have a little bargaining room for ice cream every now and again too.

Matcha Mint Chocolate Chip Ice Cream

Adapted from Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams at Home

Ingredients:

2 cups whole milk, divided

1 tbsp plus 1 tsp cornstarch

1½ ounces (3 tbsp) cream cheese, softened

1¼ cups heavy cream

2/3 cup granulated sugar

2 tbsp brown rice syrup

pinch of salt

3 ounces fresh mint (including the stems) or about 3 cups lightly packed mint leaves (stems removed)

½ tsp matcha green tea powder

¼ tsp orange blossom water

2 ounces dark chocolate (preferably 70%), cut into small shards

Instructions:

In a small bowl, mix 2 tbsp of the whole milk with the cornstarch.  In a separate medium bowl, whisk the cream cheese until smooth. 

In a medium saucepan, combine the remaining milk, heavy cream, sugar, brown rice syrup, and salt on medium-high heat, stirring occasionally until the mixture boils.  When it reaches a slow rolling boil, continue to stir for 4 minutes more.

Meanwhile, roughly tear the mint leaves into small pieces.  Prepare a large bowl with ice and a little water and put a smaller bowl inside the larger bowl; set aside.

In a small bowl, whisk the matcha tea into the orange blossom water until a slurry forms; set aside.

Remove the saucepan from the heat and gradually add in the cornstarch mixture; return the pan back to medium-high heat and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally until it thickens (this will take a few minutes). 

Remove the saucepan from the heat and slowly whisk some of the hot liquid into the cream cheese until smooth.  Add the cream cheese mixture to the pan with the remaining liquid; add the torn mint and green matcha slurry and whisk to combine.

Pour the liquid into the prepared bowl on ice.  Let cool for about 30 minutes and then refrigerate, letting the mint steep for about 5 hours.  Strain out the mint and then return the milk mixture to the fridge (I prefer to let it chill overnight, but you can churn it once it is cold.)

When ready, churn the mixture in an ice cream machine for 20 to 25 minutes, or until it gets thick and creamy and pulls away from the sides of the bowl.  At the very end of the churning, add in the chocolate shards while the machine is still running.  Pack the ice cream in an airtight container.  Cover with parchment paper cut to fit the container and freeze for at least 4 hours.

Makes about 1 quart

Notes:

-I luck out having Taza chocolate so close.  Luckily, you can also order it online.

A Very Particular Cake, Triple-Layer Vanilla Cacao Nib with Passion Fruit Curd and Coffee Frosting

This morning I woke up, brewed some coffee, made a fruit salad, and decided that today was the day to superlatively discuss cake.  A painstaking cake.  Supremely vanilla with its top frosted in coffee icing and its insides stuck together with passion fruit curd, studded with cacao nibs.

I am here to say confection doesn’t get much better than this.

The downside to discovering the greatest cake in the world is that it is even more of a pain in the ass to write about.  The recipe is really a collection of five smaller recipes, which means if you are interested in eating the greatest cake in the world you’ve got your work cut out for you.

You could also try and befriend someone you deem mad enough to take on such a project.  But even this has its downsides. Those who complete such tasks are usually quite particular people.  Adjectives such as stubborn and quixotic come to mind. 

Moving on.

The recipe comes from Milk Bar, of the Momofuku fame.  It was originally very modern in design.  Its frosting insides clearly visible from the outside. Three-tiered layers standing trim and tall and capable of serving six to eight people. 

However, this required acetate strips, a 6-inch cake ring, and the abolishment of a half dozen friends.  So my version is a little stockier.  A little less refined. And with the addition of cacao nibs instead of mini chocolate chips.  Because I’m particular when it comes to chocolate.

All and all it’s an outstanding cake, capable of comfortably feeding a baker's dozen.  People whom you must like very much.

Triple-Layer Vanilla Cacao Nib Cake with Passion Fruit Curd and Coffee Frosting

Adapted from Momofuku Milk Bar by Christina Tosi

Ingredients:

for the passion fruit syrup

5 passion fruit

50 g (¼ cup) sugar

juice of ½ a lime

pinch of salt

splash of vanilla extract

for the passion fruit curd (this will make extra)

200 g (1 cup) passion fruit puree (see note below)

130 g (2/3 cup) sugar

4 eggs

1 tsp powdered gelatin

340 g (3 sticks) butter, cold and cut into 1-inch pieces

2 g (½ tsp) kosher salt

for the chocolate cookie crumbs

50 g (1/3 cup) flour

2 g (½ tsp) cornstarch

50 g (¼ cup) sugar

35 g (1/3 cup) unsweetened cocoa powder

2 g (½ tsp) kosher salt

45 g (3 tbsp) butter, melted

for the vanilla cacao nib cake

230 g (2 sticks) butter, room temperature

500 g (2½ cups) sugar

120 g (½ cup) light brown sugar, packed

6 eggs

220 g (1 cup) buttermilk

150 g (1 cup) canola oil

25 g (2 tbsp) vanilla extract

370 g (3 cups) cake flour (see note)

8 g (2 tsp) baking powder

8 g (2 tsp) kosher salt

1½ cups chocolate covered cacao nibs, divided

for the coffee frosting

230 g (2 sticks) butter, room temperature

80 g (½ cup) confectioners sugar (sift if it’s clumpy)

110 g (½ cup) whole milk

3 g (½ tbsp) instant espresso powder (I’ve used up to 1 scant tbsp)

1 g (¼ tsp) kosher salt

Directions:

for the passion fruit syrup

In a medium saucepan, combine the pulp from 5 passion fruit, sugar, juice, and salt.  Heat until the sugar dissolves and the mixture comes together, stirring occasionally (2 to 4 minutes; you should end up with a little more than ½ cup); stir in vanilla extract.  Refrigerate until ready to use. It will thicken slightly as it cools and should be the texture of runny marmalade. (This can be made well in advance; it can also be frozen: defrost before using.) 

for the passion fruit curd

In a food processor, add 1 cup passion fruit puree and the sugar and blend until the sugar granules have dissolved.  Add the eggs and blend until the mixture turns orange-yellow in color.  Transfer the mixture to a medium saucepan and clean the food processor.

Heat the passion fruit mixture over low heat, whisking regularly.  It will start to thicken (keep a close eye on it). Right before it starts to boil, bloom the gelatin in a small bowl by stirring in 1½ tbsp of cold water (it should only sit a minute or two).

Once the mixture boils, quickly add it to your food processor along with the gelatin and butter (be careful not to overcook the curd); blend in the food processor until it becomes shiny and smooth.  Place in an airtight container and refrigerate. (This can be made up to 1 week ahead.)

for the chocolate cookie crumbs

Set the oven to 300 degrees.  In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine the flour, cornstarch, sugar, cocoa, and salt and mix on low speed with the paddle attachment until combined.  With the mixer running, pour in the melted butter and mix until it starts to clump.

On a parchment-lined cookie sheet, spread the clumped chocolate mixture and bake for about 20 minutes.  The clumps should still be slightly moist (they will harden as they cool).  Break up any very large clumps.  Let cool and store in an airtight container. (They can be made up to 1 week ahead and stored at room temperature, or in the freezer for longer.)

for the vanilla cacao nib cake

Set the oven to 350 degrees.  Butter, line with parchment paper, and butter again three 9-inch cake pans.  In the bowl of a stand mixer, cream the butter and sugars with the paddle attachment on medium-high for 2 to 3 minutes.  Scrape down the sides with a rubber spatula and with the mixer running on low add the eggs one at a time.  Beat on medium-high for another 2 to 3 minutes.  Scrape down the sides.

On low speed, slowly pour in the milk, oil, and vanilla. Mix for 4 to 6 minutes on medium-high until the batter becomes white and almost doubles in volume.  Don’t skimp on time here.

Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt. On low speed, add in the flour mixture until the batter just comes together.  Scrape down the sides and mix with the rubber spatula to ensure all the flour has been incorporated. 

Divide the batter among your three prepared pans.  Give each a quick whap on the countertop to help disperse the batter.  Sprinkle a heaping cup of the cacao nibs evenly among the top of the pans (reserving about ½ cup for the top of the frosted cake as a garnish).  Bake for about 30 minutes or until the cake tops turn golden and their middles are no longer jiggly (the edges should spring back slightly when gently poked). 

Cool completely on a wire rack.  Loosen each cake by running a knife along the edges and gently tapping the bottoms on the counter.  Gently invert the layers and store in the fridge wrapped in plastic wrap until ready to use. (They can be made up to 5 days in advance.)

for the coffee frosting and final assembly

In the bowl of a stand mixer, cream the butter and sugar with a paddle attachment on medium-high for 2 to 3 minutes until fluffy and pale yellow.  Meanwhile, whisk together the milk, espresso powder, and salt.

Scrape down the sides of the stand mixer and on low speed, very slowly stream in the milk mixture.  The butter will clump up a bit when this happens, so only pour a few tbsp of liquid at a time.  Don’t add more until the liquid gets fully incorporated.  Be patient.  Use immediately.

For assembly, place three small pieces of parchment paper on top of a cake plate or serving platter; they should overlap slightly (you’ll remove them after you frost the cake; they are there to help reduce your mess).  Select which cake layer you want for your bottom layer (reserve your best layer for the top) and invert so that the top of the cake is turned over on the parchment paper, and the flat smooth bottom layer is facing up. 

Using a pastry brush, spread about ½ the passion fruit syrup over the bottom layer.  Then top with a healthy dosing of the passion fruit curd.  It will slide a bit. Use your judgment on how much you’d like for the bottom layer (you’ll repeat this again with the next layer), you should have plenty to work with.  Sprinkle a thin layer of cookie crumbs over the top.  Then spread one-third of the coffee frosting on top (this won’t be easy, just do the best you can). 

Place the second layer on top of the frosting, again inverted so the smooth bottom is facing up.  Spread the remaining passion fruit syrup on top.  Add another healthy dose of passion fruit curd.  Sprinkle with cookie crumbs.  (You can also reserve some cookie crumbs for the top layer, if you wish.) Top with remaining cake layer (this can either be inverted or with the top facing right side up, your preference; inverted will be flat and more smooth while the top facing up will yield a slightly more rustic effect).

Using an offset spatula, frost the top with the remaining coffee frosting. (Dip the offset spatula occasionally in hot water to help ensure the top gets smooth.)  You can fill in the side crevices with any leftover curd and/or frosting and smooth using the spatula.  Garnish with the remaining cacao nibs.  Any leftover cookie crumbs will work well here too. Remove the parchment paper.

Transfer the cake to the freezer for an hour or so (long enough so that the layers will set).  Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to five days (or store for up to 2 weeks in the freezer).  Let the cake warm up for at least an hour before serving.

Serves 12 to 16 people

Notes:

-You can buy the passion fruit puree (see here on some tips for where to find it), but I like to make mine.  To do this, you’ll need top whirl the pulp from about 8 passion fruit in a food processor for about 15 seconds (the pulp is easily removed by slicing open the passion fruit, discard the outer shell).  Measure out 1 cup for the curd and any remaining pulp can be frozen.  In total, for this cake you’ll need about 12 to 15 passion fruit (or a little less than 2 cups passion fruit puree, divided).

-You’ll have extra of the passion fruit curd, which I did at the recommendation from Katie, of butter tree.  My favorite way to eat it was with a banana, some pineapple, and yogurt.  You won’t regret having extra, so I’ve worked a little surplus into the recipe (which I usually don't like doing, but if you are going through all this trouble you might as well enjoy the leftover bits ...).

-If you don’t have cake flour you can use 2 cups plus ½ cup plus 2 tbsp all-purpose flour and ¼ cup plus 2 tbsp cornstarch.  (The ratio is 2 tbsp cornstarch for every 1 cup flour, replacing 2 tbsp flour.)

-Everything can be made ahead of time, except for the coffee frosting.

-I’ve used whole milk with a little plain yogurt mixed in, in place of the buttermilk in a pinch.

-Have leftovers?  They can be frozen.

Dark Chocolate Crescent Ginger Oat Biscuits (The Beginning of Your Oat Experience)

No matter what I say from here on out, I assure you these biscuits are, in fact, cookies.  Purely a matter of semantics.  I may suggest they are virtuously cluttered with oats.  Or contain enough ginger to pass as a digestive aid.

A certain chef I know likened them to granola bars.  And he has eaten several under this premise.  The British have termed such things biscuits.  I do not have data on their intake.  But based on the information that follows, I suspect they consume their bloody share. 

They resemble an oversized, chewy ginger snap with pliable bits of softened ginger root.  The oats stand their ground supported by brown sugar and butter and take a crescent-shaped dip in dark chocolate.

The original recipe came to me accidentally.  I had seen a riff on the famed Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s River Cottage digestives made gingery and chocolatey by the cookery writer himself.  But somehow, somewhere signals got crossed and I wound up with Chocolate and Ginger Oat Biscuits from the BBC instead of Gingery, Chocolatey Oat Biscuits from The Guardian. 

No matter.  The oat-ginger-chocolate combination is winning. This recipe also contains that buttery Lyle's golden syrup that the Brits love so much.  It relies on a suspicious amount of ginger, as well, both powdered and fresh.  The root itself becomes nearly caramelized by sheer proximity to sugar and provides a nice counterpoint to the slight bitterness of the moon-shaped dark chocolate edges.

What does matter, however unfortunately, is that both British recipes use weight measurements instead of volume.   Which I did not realize until this precise moment. 

So please forgive me.  But if you’ve been toying with getting a baking scale, now is your chance to use cookies as a rationalization device.  Or circle-shaped chewy “granola bars” with chocolate rims, if you want to play it that way.

I’ll just stick to calling them oat biscuits. Because it makes me feel better about eating them for breakfast.  And because, as Fearnley-Whittingstall says, “breakfast should be just the beginning of your oat experience.”

Dark Chocolate Crescent Ginger Oat Biscuits

Adapted from the BBC, inspired by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall

Ingredients:

225g (8 ounces) unsalted butter

100g (3½ ounces) golden syrup

200g (7 ounces) dark brown sugar

150g (3½ ounces) all-purpose flour

2 tsp baking powder

1 tbsp plus 1 tsp ground ginger

2 tsp ground cinnamon

1 tsp kosher salt

400g (14 ounces) old-fashioned rolled oats

2 eggs, lightly beaten

40g (1½ ounces) peeled ginger, minced (the ginger root will be about the length of 1½ thumbs)

85g (3 ounces) dark chocolate (I used 55% dark chocolate from Taza), roughly chopped

Instructions:

Set the oven to 350 degrees.  Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.  In a medium saucepan, melt the butter, syrup, and brown sugar over medium-low heat until well combined, stirring occasionally; set aside.

In a large bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, and spices; add in the salt and oats and stir to combine.  Pour in the melted butter mixture; add in the eggs and ginger and stir everything together with a rubber spatula until fully combined.

Scoop the mixture into semi-composed heaps about 2 to 2½ inches in diameter.  You should be able to fit 9 per sheet.  Bake about 10 minutes, until the cookies have spread, are firm to the touch, and the centers are no longer liquidy.

Allow to cool long enough so they can be transferred to a wire rack.  Once they have cooled completely, pour a little water into the bottom of a saucepan and place a heat-proof bowl above it (the bowl should not be touching the water).  Place the chocolate in the bowl and stir occasionally, until the chocolate has fully melted. 

Dip the cookies into the warmed chocolate just enough to create a crescent shape spanning roughly one-third of the edge of each cookie, working quickly so the bowl of chocolate does not cool (and then start to thicken).

Place the cookies back on the wire rack until the chocolate has set.  (To speed up this process, I placed the cookies in the fridge.)  Store at room temperature for up to two days or for a number of weeks in the freezer.

Makes 18 cookies

Notes:

-The chocolate was taking a very long time to harden, so I placed the cookies in the fridge to speed up the process.  I’m sure a proper tempering would create a very lovely, shiny chocolate but I don’t think it’s necessary.

-For better or worse, these can pretty much be eaten straight out of the freezer.

-If you can get your hands on the spiked eggnog flavor from Taza, it’s quite the chocolate pairing for these cookies.